***********Some notes on motorhomes used for towing***************
I have done a considerable amount of research regarding using a Motorhome(class A) to tow a heavy trailer with a gross towing weight of 5000 lbs. My wife is a horse enthusiast who is involved in various performance activities requiring traveling to distant, sometimes remote, areas and camping out. We are in the process of purchasing a 30 foot motorhome that will have to tow our horse trailer.
Many of the motorhomes we have looked at are rated to tow 3500 lbs. In some cases this has been a limitation of the hitch receiver assembly that has been furnished with the unit and not necessarily a limit of the motorhome chassis capacity. This rating is fine for towing most dinghy╒s that do not have towing brakes.
To determine the towing capacity of the chassis use the formula;
GCVR - GVWR = Maximum vehicle tow capacity.
This information is generally available in the sales brochure in the form of a table with other information.
GCVR : Gross Combined Vehicle Rating, The combined total weight of the towing vehicle (loaded) + the total weight of the towed vehicle (loaded).
GVWR : This is the maximum rated weight of the Motorhome fully loaded, including people, luggage, fuel, water, propane etc..
Approximate weights for on board liquids are: propane = 4 lb./gal., fuel = 6 lb./gal, water = 8 lb./gal. Only include the fresh water capacity, the black and gray tanks usually get their waste water from the fresh water supply.
I have found very few salespersons who know very much about the technical specifications of the products they are selling. There is a propensity for some of them to say what you want to hear. BEWARE, I have been told that the unit I was looking at could do what I wanted, only to find out later that it was not true. Many of the sales type sold the amenities of the coach and could talk with some authority on the subject while unable to answer the most basic questions about the chassis and power train.
In my research I have been told some real horror stories about the consequences of towing too much with a Motorhome. One that seems worth repeating was a unit that virtually had the last seven feet pulled off because the frame extension welds failed when too much weight was being towed. Apparently this model of MH was well known for problems in quality and is no longer manufactured.
I have discovered that some motorhome manufacturers do a better job of attaching the frame extensions on the rear of the chassis than others. The frame extension is used to allow the coach manufacturer to add additional length to the rear of the coach. I have seen coaches that did not have extensions as the chassis used was long enough. This is the ideal situation.
If towing is important to you, put on your grubbies and learn to crawl underneath the back end and take a look. Look for frame extensions that are the same dimensions as the original frame, look also at how they are attached. If it looks ╥Rinky-Dinky╙ , it probably is. I prefer bolted and welded frame attachments. Improper welding can weaken the frame. This should not be a problem if welding is done at the factory. While your under there look for any holding tanks that may be to the rear of the rear axle, any weight that is added in this area may reduce the weight on the front end creating steering problems when trailer tongue weight is added. Holding tanks should be placed between the front and rear axles, preferably in the longitudinal center of the coach. After you have inspected a few you will form your own opinions about what you will accept.
If you are planning to tow a heavy trailer (3500 lbs. or greater) consider the above and purchase a load equalizing hitch. Most of the specifications for these hitches double the receiver capacity. Thus, if the receiver is rated at 3500 lbs. towing and 350 lbs. tongue weight as most seen on motorhomes are, it will have a capacity somewhat greater than that with an equalizer hitch.
Most manufactures are very reluctant to provide information that would allow one to exceed their advertised towing specifications. Our litigious nature once again rearing its ugly head. I was informed frequently that any warranty could be voided by exceeding rated towing capacity by several dealers and one manufacturer. I talked to dealers, manufacturers, RV mechanics and anyone else that would give me the time to answer my questions about towing with a motorhome.
The variables involved in rating a chassis for towing include the braking capacity, the rear end ratio, suspension components, engine horsepower, transmission, the chassis frame and if the towed vehicle has trailer brakes. As you can see it is not a simple figure to arrive at. The manufacturer has no way to know what is going to be towed so they will always be conservative when the calculation is published. I see it as a personal judgment call as to how much one can intelligently exceed the published rating.
Class C motorhomes generally do not make good candidates as towing vehicles. Their chassis is based on a lighter weight Van and is not rated as heavy as a class A chassis. I╒ve seen them on the road towing horse trailers and the like. From what I have been able to find out I would not recommend it. The focus of my research was class A motorhomes. I suspect much that I have found out would apply though.
By the way, the chassis I finally selected was the 1994 Ford Super F-53 model. It had a GVWR of 17,000 lbs. and a GCWR of 25,000 lbs. This gives me an 8000 lb. towing capacity with all other things being equal. I am also using a load equalizing hitch and trailer brakes.
